SuperTyfon/Prime Train Horns Maintenance
The SuperTyfon horns manufactured by Leslie appear in two styles: the S-style and the RS-style. The S-style horns have a round back, and they have the same physical attributes as the tab-backed SuperTyfon and Prime horns. On the other hand, the RS-style horns have a spike back and their features from the S-style horns somewhat differ. For one, while the round-backed horns use two diaphragms composed of a ring and a disk, the spike-backed horns use only one diaphragm disk with its silicone edge sitting on the back cap. RS-style horns are said to be an improvement of the S-style horns, especially when it comes to the structure of its diaphragm. Its spiked back allows it to have greater restoring force. Another difference between them may be seen in their power chambers. Naturally, because their backs are different in form, their respective power chambers are also constructed differently so as to be able to contain their back caps.
Whether the SyperTyfon horn is an S-style or an RS-style, the design of its power chamber is unique. Its power chamber is designed in a way that allows equal pressure on both sides of the diaphragm. There is also a small hole in the diaphragm and this serves as a valve; otherwise, the entire chamber is totally sealed. The diaphragm is able to move back and forth because of the air pressure, and not because of its elasticity, as what happens in other horns. For this reason, the operating pressure range of a SuperTyfon horn is naturally greater compared with other horns. Plus, its diaphragm is smaller and thinner.
Another thing that sets the SuperTyfon horns well apart from other kinds of horns is their particular physical attribute that enables them to have either variable or fixed mouths attached to their bell. These mouths or orifices have a dowel (which can be replaced) that enables air to be brought into the power chamber. If the hole on the dowel is large, more air can be siphoned into the chamber. It goes without saying, too, that if the hole on the dowel is small, less air can be brought into the chamber. This feature of the SuperTyfon horn makes it possible to balance high and low tones, depending on your preference.
When trying to assemble a SuperTyfon horn, work with the power chambers first. If you are working with an S-style, insert the diaphragms into the disk of the back cap, and follow this with the ring. After that, fasten the screws to secure the diaphragms in place. If you are working with an RS-style horn, the diaphragm should be inserted into the back cap. This is the only way to go because of the presence of its silicone outer ring. When that has been done, the back cap should be then fastened to the rest of the power chamber. A gasket may then be inserted into the side of the chamber that comes in contact with the bell. The bell is then placed into the manifold with a base gasket between them, and this holds true for all types of horns. The power chamber is fastened to the other side of the manifold, also with a gasket between them.
It is not easy working with a SuperTyfon horn. In fact, quite a lot of people may find it more difficult to maintain it than any other horn. A thing to remember is that the power chamber is where the sound is produced, so maintenance tips on this type of horn are focused largely on the power chamber and its parts only, and not on the manifold nor on the bells. If the power chambers of the SuperTyfon you are working with are good, it is wise not to disassemble them at all. SuperTyfon horns are very sensitive horns, to begin with after all, so if you feel you can not reassemble the parts in the same exact manner the horns came with, leave them as they are. It will spare you all the trouble later.
In the event that you need to open the power chamber, particularly of an RS-style horn, soaking it in warm water for a couple of hours or so is recommended. This is because the diaphragm of the RS-style horn comes with a silicone ring, so soaking it in water first will keep it from tearing. After that’s been done, you may now open the power chamber and examine the head and not the back cap. The nozzle should be even with a smooth surface to allow the chamber to work properly; otherwise, the nozzle may need to be replaced or remachined. Remachining the nozzle takes a lot of work, and may oftentimes require a professional as this involves a delicate process. You may do the remachining yourself only if you really know what you are doing it; otherwise, the best decision is to leave it to a professional. If you do not know of any particular professional, you may search the internet for professionals experienced in remachining the nozzle of the SuperTyfon horns. Get feedback as much as possible to ensure that you have the best one around.
The surface of the nozzle, too, and the cushion ring should not belong on the same plane. On the contrary, the plane of the nozzle should lie some .015” above that of the cushion ring. If they lie any closer together than that, chances are the chamber may not elicit a sound at all, or if ever, the sound will come as a hiss. The distance between the planes allows just enough pressure on the diaphragm to form a seal that will in turn make the diaphragm move back and forth. Too much pressure will cause the diaphragm to be pushed back too far, so no sound or very little at all is given off. Too little pressure, on the other hand, will cause the diaphragm to move too fast, making the chamber give off a sound that is similar to a squeal.
Another area to examine is the diffuser plate that is found below the nozzle of an RS-style power chamber. The diffuser is an important part of the chamber as it is the one that distributes air around the nozzle, thus aiding the chamber to give off a good sound. Unfortunately, the diffuser has a tendency to loosen. In such a case, the diffuser may be fastened into place by bending the tabs holding it in the first place. Another suggestion is to use a couple of drops of JB Weld. Some people prefer to simply remove any loose diffusers there are, but since a diffuser is considered an important part of the chamber, repairing it may be a good idea.
After all these, you may now work on the back cap. If you are working on an RS-style horn, there is no more need for you to remove the diaphragm; such can already be cleaned as it is. In fact, removing it may cause considerable damage to the silicone ring, and this is definitely something you do not want to see happening. However, if you are working on an S-style horn, there appears to be no danger to remove the diaphragm as it does not come with a silicone ring anyway. Before removing the diaphragms, label them carefully so you will know the order they appear and this will help you a lot when you will have to put them back together again. Then, with a screwdriver, remove one of the screws that hold the diaphragm.
The diaphragm pieces, chamber, and the back cap may now be cleaned. If you see a small tear on an RS-style diaphragm, do not panic. Applying silicone rubber to it may just do the trick. If the tear is big, however, you may need to replace the diaphragm. After cleaning the diaphragm pieces, chamber and the back cap, assemble the power chamber back together, then test its voice. You can do this by putting the nozzle of an airgun into the hole on the power chamber and blowing into it. The resulting pitch should be high and neither should it waver nor change. If you do not hear any sound at all, or if the sound comes out all wrong, flip and try reassembling the diaphragm disk. If it still does not work, flip the ring first and then flip the disk once more. The diaphragm disks may be rotated such that there are relief holds on opposite sides of the chamber.
If there is still no sound after all these attempts, try replacing the back cap of the problem chamber with the back cap of the good chamber. If the chamber sounds, the problem is either with the diaphragm or the back cap. If the chamber still does not sound, however, the problem is most likely with the head. In either case, the problem part will need to be replaced or remachined at least.
Leslie’s horns may be very challenging to maintain, but their unique features make them all worth it.
